Sunday 14 July 2013

Life on a boat


A decision made easy, to sail and to surf.

After careful consideration I took the opportunity to sail across the pacific and surf some of the best waves in the world. Who wouldn’t!!

I met Daniel the captain and Kyla the other new crew member on the 6th of June and we got on pretty good, so once the plan was set out we were bound for the Pacific. There was a going away party, then another one and finally after we recovered we were ready to go for the 9th of June…. or so we thought.

Boats are tricky things I must say. There is a saying that you should never buy a boat unless you can afford to “stand in a shower and tear up £20 notes” according to sea angler magazine. This I took as a slight exaggeration until I spent 4 weeks moored in a harbor, fix one thing, right ready to go…oh wait one more thing…
After 4 weeks of trying to get us prepared visas, food, booze, alternators, fuel filters, dingy problems, fuel, electrics, fridges the list goes on. Finally on the morning of the 5th of July we set sail at 2am for a small island off the coast of Panama City, with the promise of a solid incoming swell.
At this point of my adventure I am sad to say that I hadn’t surfed in close to a month or done anything fun really except for getting used to spending a long time on the boat. But saying that I did have 2 weeks of 5hr per day surf at Morro Negrito so all in all not too bad at all.
Daniel told me about this wave at Isla Chepillo is one of the best in Panama, so we were hoping to score for a couple of days before we moved on to Las Perlas Islands about 60 miles off the Panamanian coast.

Sailors have certain rules that you cant start a journey on a Tuesday or Friday, as it is bad luck, but we weren’t really going very far so we didn’t take any notice as its only major voyages that really count and the swell was coming...needless to say the 5th was a Friday and before we even left the harbor we somehow lost one of the anchors! We are now an anchor down with 3 leftover but still the Friday curse hit us hard!

We arrived in Chepillo at around 10am to see good swell but crap winds, there was a couple of people out but with a big thunderstorm on the horizon we chose to give it a miss until later in the day. The storm hit and brought 30 knots onshore winds and lots of rain for about 2 hours. And then the wind died…

We stayed at Chepillo for 3 days of epic righthanders, barrel section at the peak followed by a wall that you could fit in about 6 turns after. It kind of reminded me of pink rock for those of you who know where that is J
We surfed early morning, noon, and evening for about 2-3 hrs. a session, a couple of boats would arrive from the city around midday on the higher tide when it wasn’t much good so we took that time to rest up, only to head back out just the two of us again on the drop after they left. It certainly has its advantage the old yacht! I did a bit of fishing off the side of the boat and caught a catfish, not very big about 3lb but it’s another new species to my growing fishing list.
 
Early morning perfection

Afternoon perfection

Captain Daniel

A fishing experience

On Sunday we set sail for Las Perlas Islands about 20 miles south of Chepillo, after our little surf break this was really the start of the adventure, finally leaving sight of Panamanian coastline. I through out a nice big lure to trawl as we were sailing, on Daniel’s Penn Senator (proper fishing rod). Not too much action on the way fishing wise but just as we were coming close to the islands I pulled in a 6lb sierra mackerel which made for some good eating the next two days.  Cruising along we caught a show of some migrating whales breaching, pretty epic start to the trip!

We moored up at Isla Pedro Gonzales, as it was getting dark. I pulled out the fishing rod and dropped a line down straight to the bottom and let it sit there hoping to catch something. After dark I went below deck to cook dinner and left the line secured to the deck. In the middle of frying up some big tasty mackerel fillets I hear a shout from Daniel “Your line man, get your line!!” In turn I replied that I was busy with the dinner and asked if he could pull it up, he said, “Man you got a shark on here or something is pulling the boat around!” I ran up on deck and grabbed the rod and made my way around the boat to clear the line from underneath, it was pulling hard! The line was almost full out and it took all my strength and Daniel too to try and hold on to it. After we managed to get a bit of line back on the reel I hopped down into the dingy so that I could have more room to try and pull up whatever was on the hook. Daniel and Kyla were on the boat shining the flashlights and me in the dingy hauling ass! Whatever it was it was by far the biggest fish I have ever caught, we thought it was a shark but in truth we didn’t know what it was. It took me about 40mins to pull it to the surface and to my surprise a shout came from Daniel “ holy shit man, that’s a f**king manta ray or something!” I was told I have to cut the line, as they are too dangerous to land and big! It measured around 1.5m wide and 2m long! Most definitely the biggest fish I have ever caught! I pulled it up to the surface and shouted at the guys to grab my camera and take a photo but in the pitch dark and with the fish still fighting, they said no way, the dingy I was sitting in was being pulled all over the place, the rod bent to almost below the waters surface. I brought it to the surface and got a good view of it then dropped it back to a depth of around 2ft got the weight clear of the water and cut line. I really wanted to land it but in order to do so we would have had to gaff it and probably kill it, so despite the fact that it swam away with a hook in its mouth at least it swam away. What an adrenaline rush and what a start to my adventure, epic surf, whales, tasty fish and to top it all off a big fish on the line!

Today is the 9th of July and we are on our way to the big island in Las Perlas, Isla del Rey. The fishing line off the back just started reeling out, I pulled in a Dogtooth Tuna and Kyla cooked it up for brunch. We are rounding the headland of del Rey now the swell is 2ft at 18sec and there are some solid white water chunks breaking off the points. The swell is increasing tomorrow to 5ft 16sec so we are hoping to score again over the next couple of days before setting sail for the Galapagos.

Isla Del Ray

We arrived at the southern tip of Isla del Rey, a few good size waves coming in but wrong tide, so we decided we would swim to the beach and mess around in the shore dump after a bit of lunch. I of course had my fishing line over the side of the boat and after a few minutes I got a bite. Well now I have to say I gave a shout despite its small size when I pulled up a baby hammerhead shark! One can be sure that big momma wasn’t too far away! Holy crap this trip is getting crazier by the day! I think I might have to keep my legs on my board tomorrow in the surf. Needless to say we took the dingy to shore
Baby Smooth Hammerhead, can grow to 16ft long this one just about 2ft


Isla Del Rey shore dump

First sight of Humpback whales off the Las Perlas Islands

Two of them here breaching, they put on quite a performance for us