After probably the worst winter I've seen since I have started surfing which seems to have continued into the worst summer (summers are always bad we just forget how flat it can be after having a good winter) but wait.... there it is, that swell on the charts where there is the possibility of scoring some epic waves with warm water (when one is wearing a cosy 4/3) and only a few people out (if you get up early enough and paddle out when its completely dark) but its these moments when you think to yourself "man i wish ireland was like this all year round" but then also think to yourself, if it was this good all year round I wouldnt be sitting out here with just a mate. So Ireland I say to you, stay as you are, you bring us cold, rain and wind but it always pays off in the end.
And so the story begins....
Myself and Jimbo went on a little adventure to **** to meet up with Anthony for two days, to simply surf the shit out of it. At 6am we left Co Clare behind us with a 3hr drive ahead of us, even with the lack of sleep and the pissing rain, our spirits were high with the anticipation of good waves to come.
The first day the swell was solid, with 4-6ft sets hitting the reef and not a person in sight for miles.
Although the wind was supposed to be offshore we got a bit skunked, with a light onshore sea breeze, but there was still some ripable walls and sections all to ourselves.
Three of us out on this in the morning for a warm up session.
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| I had never surfed here before and as far as I know it doesnt have a name so for now we can just call it gregs, as it is quite similar to good ol' creg in Lahinch. |
As the tide pushed out we made our way slightly up the coast and again surfed empty waves with light onshore breeze, it did eventually clean right up and the sun came out. I surfed for around 7hrs got some bombs and some hidings, Anthony got a few good ones but as the tide pushed up he got into a confrontation with a submerged slab and did some damage.
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| The point |
The next day we hit the road nice and early, after only 4hrs sleep I was not in the best form, trying to stay awake behind the wheel was a mission and even the thought of surfing again brought pain to my arms.....ah but then we arrived, the sun came up and the surf was on like donkey kong.
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| The second day brought sunshine and waves...nice |
We arrived with many options, left or right we said, to be honest it was hard to choose both waves were perfect tubes with a good wall to finish. Since we had been surfing lefts all the previous day we decided to hit up the right. What a fun wave, looking forward to my next trip here.
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| The Left |
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The Right
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